Kitty Tips Blog:

When can kittens leave their mother?

I recommend keeping kittens with their mother until 8 weeks old. Any sooner and they are so insecure about the world that they don’t adapt as well. Any longer and they begin to bond with their mother and litter mates and do feel the pain of loss when separated.

When do they need to use the box?

The very best times to put a kitten in the litter box, is when they need to use it. This will help them learn to go to that box when they feel ‘that’ urge. The best times to put a kitten in the litter box is right after they wake up from a nap and 10-15 minutes later, plus right after they eat a meal of solid food (as opposed to nursing).

Hygiene?

When caring for orphaned kittens, remember that you are replacing their mother who does everything for them during the first three weeks. This includes cleaning them. You will need to get a good textured wash cloth- like terrycloth- to simulate the mother’s tongue. Get the wash cloth wet with very warm water: it should be wet, but not dripping. Gently wash the kitten’s face by moving across the eyes and nose area. After the face, gently wash the genital area, this will stimulate the bladder to work, and in the later weeks, teach the kitten to clean itself after a bowel movement.

Holding Kittens?

The best time to train a cat how to be held is when they are kittens. We easily train all of our kittens to be held upside down (like a baby) by being consistent. Everytime you pick the kitten up, hold it so that the kitten feels secure, so that it can’t fall. Holding kittens must be done the same way, every day so they will learn you won’t drop them. This is critical: you must hold them the same way, every day.

Why change the litter’s bedding?

This is one of three important reasons to change the bedding in your litter’s nursery every 2-3 days. If you keep the bedding clean, the kittens learn NOT to use the bedding for their bathroom. This will make sandbox training much easier. I created two sets of bedding: one was in the litter’s nursery, while the other would air dry on the clothes line for a couple of days. I never washed the bedding, just rinsed it and air dried it. Laundry detergents’ chemicals and scents could be too strong for kittens.

Weaning?

You can start weaning the kittens at 4 weeks old. The best way to do this is to simulate a mother’s actions. At four weeks, the mother will start leaving the nest/den for longer periods of time, and stretch the time between feedings. She will also start bringing fresh kills into the den for the litter to smell and investigate. No, you don’t need to give the kittens raw meat, but you should start giving them moistened Kitten Food in between their formula feedings. I suggest you soak the Kitten food in the milk formula you have used for the last 4 weeks. During the 5th week you can add a bowl of dry food along with the moistened. The kittens should be eating solid food, and not looking for the eye dropper (formula) at 6 weeks old.I recommend keeping the kittens together until they are 8 weeks old.

Remind Kitten about the Litter Box?

When litter box training kittens, you must remind them of the litter box, much like you remind a small child of the toilet. Before long trips parents ask their small children, ‘Do you need to use the restroom?’ You must do the same for kittens.When the kittens are awake and playing, put them in the litter box twice an hour. This will help remind them where the box is, and they will use it if they feel the need to.

Formula for motherless kittens?

This is an excellent formula for orphaned kittens:

2 Egg Yolks
1/2 teaspoon of bonemeal
1/4 cup brewers yeast
2 cups of whole milk, (or 1 cup of evaporated milk and 1 cup of water)
Whirl in a blender or food processor until well mixed.

Kittens need to be fed much like human babies-every three to
four hours, so make sure you have alot of free time on your hands for the next 4 weeks if you take in an abandoned kitten. At four weeks you can start weaning them, but stretching the time between feedings and adding moistened kitten food to their diet.

Kitten Proofing your home?

New parents know to child proof their home; you should kitten/cat proof your home also. Almost everything you would do to child proof a home should be done to make your home safe for your pets. The most obvious things involve securing poisons, cleaning supplies, and all types of medicine out of reach. You should secure all electrical and computer cords in such a manner that they won’t tempt Kitty to play with them. In addition, you should eliminate all other temptations to misbehave. Baskets full of fluffy feathers or decorative grasses are a perfect toy; don’t be angry if kitty destroys them. Put those delicate knick knacks away for a few months while your new kitty adjusts to your home and learns the rules.

Electrical cords?

It is recommended that you don’t leave electrical cords out in the open. A kitten may think that they are toys for them to play with and chew on.

The Expanding Nursery?

In the wild, mothers will allow their young to gradually expand their horizons, and explore beyond the den in small steps. For your mother and litter, set up the birthing area in a dark, quiet area like a closet in a large cardboard box. When the kittens open their eyes, you can remove the box and let them have run of the closet. When they begin to run and play open the closet door, but close outer door to the room. I don’t suggest allowing a kitten, unsupervised, full roam of your home until they are 3-4 months old. As with human babies, be sure to Kitten Proof your nursery area and the rest of your home.

Changing Bedding in the cat nursery?

To prevent your momma kitty from moving her litter from place to place, change the bedding every two days. I created two sets of bedding for my nursing kitty. While one set was in the ‘nursery’, the other was hanging on the line. I only rinsed the bedding out with plain water and let them air dry for two days. The chemicals, and fragrances of laundry detergents could be too strong for baby kittens.

Walking on a lead?

It is relatively easy to teach a kitten to walk on a lead: first, let it wear the harness (without the leash)in the house over a period of days. 5 minutes per day are enough. You can also let the kitten play with the harness and the leash under your supervision. Reward it with cat treats every time the harness or leash are tolerated without fuss. Then, clip on the leash. Let the kitten romp around the house with the dragging leash (under close supervision,so it does not get trapped). The next step is to pick up the leash and follow the kitten wherever it wants to go, rather than attempting to direct its movements. Finally, you will be able to persuade it to walk by your side. Never drag or pull the kitten, but praise and reward it when it gets things right. Small tugs on the leash are allowed. The last step is to walk your kitten in the garden and the street. Be patient and carry it inside if it becomes frightened. – So what is this good for? The lead may come in useful some day, for example if you need to take your cat to the vet and do not have access to a cat carrier.

Feeding a Pregnant Cat?

Your veterinarian will made recommendations regarding nutritional changes. Don’t give any supplements unless advised to do so by your vet. Usually, you will be instructed to feed a growth-formula due to the extra need for protein and calcium, among other nutrients. During the last half of the pregnancy, your vet may advise an increase in the amount of food being fed. That will depend upon your cat’s weight and health. You abviously want to avoid creating an overweight cat, which could make her delivery more difficult.

Keeping the kitten confined?

To prevent a new kitten from getting lost in your house, try placing a two foot tall piece of plexiglass in the door to the kitten’s ‘nursery’-the one room you keep her confined to while unsupervised. This will allow the kitten to see outside her room, but she won’t be able to climb over the glass. Then as she learns where her sandbox, food dish, and other areas of the house are, you can remove the glass. [Read more...]

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How You Can Choose the Best Kitten Food

When trying to choose the best kitten food, there are a few things that you will need to keep in mind.  Most of the packages are covered in bright colors and a thousand different promises and lists of ingredients, so how are you supposed to know which to choose?  The first thing to keep in mind is that you need to look beyond the fancy packaging.  Just like when reading labels for your own food, just stick to the basics and you’ll have no trouble choosing the best kitten food.

Cats are Carnivores – Cats aren’t exactly known as big salad fans.  In the wild, cats are predators, subsisting on a diet made up pretty much entirely of meat, which consists of proteins and fats.  There are very few carbohydrates in the cat’s natural diet.  So, it stands to reason when when you choose the best kitten food, it will contain primarily protein and fat, with only a very small amount of carbohydrate and filler.  This can be difficult sometimes because manufacturers have a tendency to use other names for some ingredients, such as maize for corn, to disguise what exactly is in the bag.

So I Shouldn’t Feed My Cat Dry Food? – Not necessarily, but is is difficult to find a dry cat food that keeps the nutritional requirements of the cat in mind without adding other ingredients.  Dry food is popular because it is generally less expensive and more convenient than wet varieties, but it also tends to be filled with corn, rice, flour, and other ingredients that are nowhere in the cat’s natural diet.  For simplicity’s sake, it is best to consider dry food off the menu.

Special Nutritional Requirements – Cats and kittens have two different sets of nutritional requirements that must be taken into account.  Little bodies are constantly growing and rebuilding themselves, so you will need to choose a kitten food that has an especially high protein and vitamin content to make sure that your kittens have ample building blocks for their little bodies to use to grow and develop.

Even though there are dozens, if not hundreds of varieties of food available, when you want to choose the best kitten food, just keep these guidelines in mind and you will have nothing to worry about the next time you go shopping for your furry little friends.

Written by Elander

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Do Kittens Need Kitten Food? Find Out Here

Do kittens need kitten food? Well it really depends on the quality of the cat food. If it’s a high quality, holistic cat food them most likely, no you won’t need to use a kitten food. Here’s what you need to look for in a cat food before you make a decision to use regular cat food.

Protein is the building block for kittens and adult cats, so they need plenty of high quality protein in their diet. A lack of quality protein could have adverse health affects on cats as they grow older. Look for a protein content of 33%.

Next, look to see what type of certification that the cat food has. Always make sure that the food you choose, at minimum, meets basic certification.

There are two certifications for animal feed. AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) is one you will see quite often. It sets minimal nutritional standards for animal foods.

Then you will see one called APHIS certification. APHIS certification allows the sale of a cat food to the International market which has extremely high standards on ingredient sources. So if it has both certifications that’s even better.

Finally, check the bag and you should see somewhere on it where it says “approved for all stages of life”. This means it has at least the minimum requirements for kittens and adult cats.

So, do kittens need kitten food? If it has good certification, adequate protein, and the food is small and easy for them to eat, then it’s perfectly fine to feed your kitten regular cat food.

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Using a milk replacer liquid and kitten food, learn how to help a kitten stop nursing in this free pet care video clip from a practicing veterinarian. Expert: Tracy Carreiro Bio: Tracy Carreiro is member of The Faxon Animal Rescue League. The League was founded in 1913 to help overworked and abused draft horses. Filmmaker: Christian Munoz-Donoso
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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To Puppy Food (or Kitten Food) or not to Puppy Food (or Kitten Food) – That is the Question

“Why do some pet foods have puppy food (or kitten food) and others do not? Shouldn’t I give my new pup – puppy food?”

Before I answer that question – I need to share a little pet food history. Back in the early days of commercial pet food, veterinarians noticed that when puppies were fed the same commercial food that the adult dogs were eating – they did not grow and thrive the way they should. Back then, commercial dog foods and cat foods contained very little quality meat – the protein mostly came from grains the food contained. It was determined that puppies and kittens need a higher protein food in order to develop properly. This change was important, however the bad news is that the protein was not required to come from meat sources – the majority came from inferior grain sources. The new requirements just required a higher percentage of protein for a growth food – a puppy food or a kitten food – there were no specifications as to where the protein came from (still holds true today).

Today, AAFCO has set standards for puppy foods to be a minimum of 22% protein (adult dog food minimum 18% protein), standards for kitten food must be a minimum of 30% protein (adult cat food 26% minimal protein). Besides a few other very insignificant differences – the amount of protein is the only difference between an adult dog food or an adult cat food to a puppy food or kitten food.

So, to answer the question above – you can feed a puppy food or kitten food, but you don’t have to if you are feeding the right food! Remember, except for percentage of protein, there are no significant differences in an adult pet food to kitten or puppy food.

Many pet food lines have protein percentages above the minimal requirements for puppies and kittens. Some pet food formulators have determined in their research that 18% protein for adult dogs and 26% protein for adult cats is not optimal – so they formulate their foods with higher protein levels than the required minimal. In other words – many adult foods meet the same nutritional requirements for puppies and kittens even though they are not labeled specifically as puppy food or kitten food. As an example…ABC Chicken & Rice Puppy Food has a protein percentage of 23% and ABC Chicken Kitten Food has a protein percentage of 32% – but XYZ Chicken & Rice Dog food has a protein percentage of 25% and XYZ Chicken Cat Food as a protein percentage of 35%. Both ABC brands and XYZ brands meet the required protein levels for puppy or kitten foods as well as adult dog and adult cat food. So, a puppy owner or a kitten owner could feed their new baby the XYZ pet food – even though it is not labeled specifically for puppies or kittens.

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Before I go any further – I have to mention a little about canned pet foods. ANY canned or pouched pet food (a moist pet food) contains at least 70% to 85% moisture. Protein percentages in canned pet foods vary from 7% to 11% – far below the minimal requirements necessary for adult dogs and cats as well as kittens and puppies. Pet owners do not want to feed solely a canned or pouched pet food to adult dogs and cats or puppies and kittens. They simply do not provide the necessary nutrition. If you want to feed a canned pet food, feed it WITH a quality dry food. Maybe soft for breakfast and kibble for dinner.

OK, back to puppy foods and kitten foods…a common question I hear on this subject is…’Is it ok for my adult dog (or cat) to be eating a food that has such a high protein percentage?’ Many pet owners – after hearing my explanation of puppy foods and kitten foods, are then concerned about feeding an adult dog or cat a pet food that has a higher percentage of protein. The best way I can ease those concerns is from sharing the words of many pet nutrition experts. As a dog or cat goes from being a puppy or kitten, to a young adult, to a mature adult, to a senior pet – their body continually produces new cells, new tissue, and new muscle – the entire process feeds off of protein. So the pet continues to need a quality protein source throughout its entire life. (There are exceptions for senior pets and pets with illnesses – this discussion is strictly for healthy animals – consult your veterinarian if you have any questions.) Science – not speculation – has determined that a higher protein level benefits young dogs and cats as well as adult pets. I have reviewed some dog and cat foods in Petsumer Report that have protein levels as high as 50%! I’m not so confident that 50% protein in a dog food or cat food is optimal for house pets (more for a working dog – example being a working cattle dog tending to a herd) – the point is that higher protein level pet foods are out there, and not all of them are labeled as puppy food or kitten food.

The thing that makes most pet owners choose a puppy food or kitten food is the marketing. Those television commercials that show adorable puppies and kittens stating this food ‘meets the unique needs’ or ‘specially formulated’ or ‘Extra Nutrition’ or ‘developed to meet the higher energy needs’ and so forth have lured pet owners into firm beliefs that their puppy or kitten has to have a puppy food or kitten food. The cute little faces along with the expertly researched tag lines – have helped to grow the puppy food and kitten food business into phenomenal numbers. Part of the marketing strategy is to get puppy owners hooked into a particular emotional commitment to the manufacturer through a puppy or kitten food. If you start off with ABC puppy food – the marketing goal is for you to stay loyal to that company later with ABC adult dog food. The pet food manufacturers have become SO successful at this marketing technique – several manufacturers that make a quality maintenance pet food (not a specific puppy food or kitten food) have been forced to package their food in a puppy or kitten format.

I am not saying that puppy foods and kitten foods are bad – it still boils down to ingredients in the pet food. What I am saying is that it is not a requirement to feed a puppy or kitten specifically a puppy food or a kitten food. As long as you provide them with a quality pet food that meets the protein percentage they need – you are fine.

Always, always, always – consult your veterinarian.

And one more quick bit of information – I wish I could tell you that when you find a good puppy food or kitten food, with quality human grade US ingredients, and added health bonuses such as chelated or proteinated minerals and probiotics – that you can stick with that same manufacturer for your adult pet food and treats…but that is not always the case. Actually it is more just the opposite. From reviewing many lines of pet food and pet treats from one manufacturer for Petsumer Report, I have found that many pet food manufacturers make some pet foods that have quality human grade ingredients and then their pet treats are close to junk food. While others might have one or two varieties of pet food that are good, and have several more varieties that I would never recommend a pet owner to feed. It’s just not that easy. You must look at the ingredients, ask the questions, and look at the Guaranteed Analysis and Best By Date on everything.

Wishing you and your pet the best.

Susan Thixton has worked in the pet industry for over 20 years. The last 15 years – since the death of her eight year old dog due to chemical preservatives in pet food – she’s been researching the pet food industry. Visit www.TruthAboutPetFood.com to learn more.

7 week old fostered kittens waiting on their dinner being prepared. They had been ill with cat flu and were just starting to get their appetite back. Because of their condition I had to chop their food finely and then add water and their medication to it. Once they were old enough and healthy enough the kittens were eventually re-homed in pairs to two loving families. They were never purposely starved for our entertainment – Cats can be very impatient and demanding!

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